VS Tees — Fabric Guide

WHAT IS
GSM?

GSM stands for grams per square meter — the industry standard for measuring fabric weight. It tells you how heavy, warm, and dense a fabric is before you buy. From lightweight summer tees to heavyweight 10 oz hoodies, GSM is your guide to choosing the right material for any garment.

Fabric Weight Explained Cotton Types French Terry vs Fleece 300–500 GSM Hoodies
Industry Standard g/m² Grams per Square Meter

GSM RANGES &
THEIR APPLICATIONS

Understanding GSM ranges lets you match fabric weight to garment function. A higher GSM means a heavier, denser material — more warmth and structure. A lower GSM means lighter, more breathable fabric better suited for warm-weather wear.

30 Sheer
150 Light
280 Mid
350 Heavy
500+ Ultra
30–150
Lightweight

Breathable and airy — ideal for summer wear, athletic tops, and linings where airflow is priority.

Summer Shirts Dresses Linings
150–350
Midweight

The sweet spot for year-round wear — standard sweatshirts, French terry hoodies, and mid-season tops.

Sweatshirts French Terry Light Jackets
350+
Heavyweight

Dense, warm, and structured — heavy hoodies, outerwear, and premium blanks built for cold weather and durability.

Heavy Hoodies Outerwear Workwear

TYPES OF FABRIC
MATERIALS

From natural fibers to synthetic blends, each fabric type brings different GSM ranges, textures, and performance characteristics. The textile industry recognizes over 500 distinct weaves and knits — grouped here by construction type.

01

Cotton

Breathable, soft, and hypoallergenic. The most versatile natural fiber — used across virtually every GSM range from lightweight tees to heavy fleece.

02

Linen

Lightweight and moisture-wicking — perfect for warm climates. Typically low GSM (100–200 g/m²) with a naturally crisp texture.

03

Wool

Excellent insulation and natural stretch. Used in knitwear across a wide GSM range — heavier weights for outerwear, lighter for base layers.

04

Polyester

Durable, wrinkle-resistant, and quick-drying. Often blended with cotton to improve durability and print performance at any GSM.

05

Rayon

Silky texture with excellent drape — typically lightweight (100–150 GSM). Less durable when wet; best for linings and flowing garments.

01

Cotton Lawn & Poplin

Fine, smooth weaves (80–120 GSM) for shirts and dresses. Lightweight and breathable with a crisp hand feel.

02

Cotton Twill

Durable diagonal weave (200–350 GSM) used in chinos and workwear. Strong, abrasion-resistant, and structured.

03

Denim

Sturdy canvas weave (300–450 GSM) — synonymous with jeans. Heavy, durable, and highly abrasion-resistant.

04

Cotton Fleece

Brushed interior for softness and warmth (280–500 GSM). The backbone of classic sweatshirts, hoodies, and joggers. Excellent for screen printing.

05

French Terry

Loop-backed knit (220–300 GSM) offering moisture-wicking and a lighter weight than fleece. Smooth exterior takes prints beautifully.

01

Woven Fabrics

Interlaced yarns — canvas, twill, satin, denim. Structured and stable with minimal stretch. GSM range: 100–600+.

02

Knit Fabrics

Interlooped yarns — jersey, rib, French terry, fleece. Stretchy and comfortable. GSM range: 100–500+.

03

Non-Woven Fabrics

Bonded or felted construction — interfacing, felt. Used in linings and structural garment components.

04

Blended Fabrics

Combinations like cotton-polyester for optimized performance — improved durability, reduced shrinkage, and better print retention.

CHOOSING THE RIGHT
FABRIC FOR YOUR NEEDS

Match your fabric choice to four key variables: climate, activity level, durability needs, and desired hand feel. Use the guide below.

Factor Recommended GSM Best Fabric Type Example Use
Warm Climate 80–180 GSM Cotton lawn, linen, rayon blend Summer tees, dresses, linings
Cool / Year-Round 220–320 GSM French terry, jersey, mid fleece Sweatshirts, lounge wear, layers
Cold Weather 350–500+ GSM Heavyweight cotton fleece Heavy hoodies, outerwear, coats
Athletic / Active 180–280 GSM Jersey knit, French terry Gym wear, sport tops, activewear
Workwear / Durable 300–450 GSM Cotton twill, heavy fleece Workwear, uniforms, outerwear
Custom Printing 250–400 GSM Cotton fleece, French terry Blank hoodies, sweatshirts, tees

COTTON FLEECE VS.
FRENCH TERRY

Cotton Fleece is renowned for its plush interior and cozy warmth. This fabric is the backbone of classic sweatshirts and hoodies — a brushed interior creates air pockets that trap heat. A midweight fleece at 280–350 GSM strikes a balance between warmth and breathability; our heavyweight options at 350–500 GSM deliver serious insulation for cold-weather collections.

Interior Brushed (soft, warm)
GSM Range 280–500+ GSM
Best Season Fall / Winter

French terry features smooth exteriors with looped "terry" backs that absorb moisture and keep you comfortable during activities. Lighter than traditional fleece at around 220–300 GSM, French terry combines softness with excellent drape — a go-to for athletic and loungewear, and the preferred blank for detailed screen printing and embroidery.

Interior Looped terry (breathable)
GSM Range 220–300 GSM
Best Season Year-round

MASTERING
FABRIC SELECTION

Climate

Match GSM to Weather

Low GSM for warm climates. High GSM (350+) for cold-weather collections. French terry for year-round versatility.

Printing

Best Blanks for Decoration

250–400 GSM cotton fleece and French terry hold screen printing, DTG, and embroidery with the cleanest results.

Durability

Higher GSM = Longer Life

Heavier fabrics resist pilling, abrasion, and shape loss. Premium heavyweight blanks at 400–500 GSM outlast lighter alternatives.

Hand Feel

Drape vs Structure

Low GSM knits drape softly. High GSM fleece holds a structured shape. Choose based on your garment's silhouette goals.